VW Golf GTD Mk7 — EA288 Engine Rebuild

1. Engine Specifications — EA288 2.0 TDI 184PS

2. EA288 Component Identification Guide

The EA288 is a modern diesel with features that differ significantly from older VW TDI engines (PD, BKD, BMM, etc.). Study these diagrams before starting work.

2.1 Engine Block Layout

Viewed from the timing belt end of the engine:

2.2 Piston & Conrod Assembly

EA288 pistons have NO valve pockets (unlike older TDIs). The piston crown has a dished design for swirl. Each piston has a ring-shaped cooling channel fed by oil spray nozzles from the block.

2.3 Cylinder Head & Camshaft Housing

The EA288 head assembly is significantly different from older TDIs. The camshafts are trapped inside an integrated cassette — you cannot remove them individually.

2.4 Timing Belt Routing

2.5 Turbocharger

The EA288 turbo is a Garrett unit integrated into a cast iron exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold and turbo are essentially one assembly bolted to the exhaust face of the head. The V-band clamp connects the turbo outlet to the downpipe — this is the one that rusts solid.

3. Special Tools & Equipment Required

EA288 Timing Tool Kit

Aftermarket kits available on eBay UK for £30–50. You need:

Tool Reference Photos

Photos courtesy of IDParts Blog. Tap to enlarge.

T10490 — Crankshaft Lock. Surrounds the crank gear to lock at TDC.

T10492 — HPFP Locking Pin. Sits behind the HPFP sprocket.

T10172 — Cam Counter-Hold. Pins into sprocket holes to hold while loosening.

T10051 — HPFP Counter-Hold. Same tool as PD cam holder.

Other Essential Tools

4. CUNA/CUPA Swap Compatibility

Direct Drop-In Donors (184PS, same turbo)

The Golden Rule

Keep the Golf's ECU and wiring loom. Bolt the donor block in as a bare/partial engine. Transfer the Golf's sensors, DPF, EGR, turbo, and injectors onto it. The Golf's ECU then sees no change. No coding, no immobiliser drama, no specialist needed.

150PS EA288 Donors (requires more work)

Engine codes CRBC, CRLB, CRVA, CRVC — same block, same bore/stroke, same bolt pattern. These work as long-blocks but require transferring the 184PS turbo (GTD1449VZ), and potentially the injectors and high-pressure fuel pump.

5. Time Estimates — Hours of Wrench Time

These are realistic estimates for an experienced mechanic working on an EA288 for the first time. Does not include waiting for machine shop (2–4 weeks) or parts delivery.

6. Ancillary Removal Sequence 3–4 hrs

With the engine out of the car and on a stand/bench, strip in this order for progressive access:

1. Disconnect battery (should already be done if engine's out)
2. Drain fluids: Oil (sump plug), coolant (block drain + radiator drain)
3. Intake manifold and charge air pipework: Unbolt the intake manifold from the head (6 bolts, bag and label). Disconnect charge air temp sensor connector first. The EA288 has an integrated charge air cooler in the manifold on some variants.
4. Exhaust manifold/turbo assembly: The turbo is integrated into the cast iron exhaust manifold on EA288. Unbolt from head studs. Exhaust manifold nuts are stretch-type — replace on reassembly.
5. EGR valve and cooler: Remove EGR valve from head.
   CRITICAL: Inspect EGR Cooler for Internal Failure

   If metallic debris is visible in the intake ports or EGR pipework, the cooler has broken up internally. This means contamination is systemic (bearings, oil system, turbo) and a rebore alone may not save the engine. The debris has circulated everywhere.

6. Injectors: Remove 4x Bosch piezo injectors. Use injector puller if seized. Keep in order (1–4 from timing belt end). Cap fuel rail openings. Label each injector.
7. Glow plugs: 12-point deep socket. Apply penetrating oil if stuck. Do NOT snap them off in the head.
8. Coolant pipework: All hoses from head and thermostat housing. The EA288 head has upper and lower coolant jackets.
9. Oil feed and return pipes: Turbo oil feed/return lines.
10. Sensors: Disconnect and label: coolant temp, oil pressure, cam position, crank position. Photograph connector positions before unplugging.
11. Alternator and AC compressor bracket (if still attached)

7. Timing Belt Removal 1–1.5 hrs

1. Remove timing belt covers: Upper cover first, then lower. Small securing bolts (note different lengths).
2. Rotate engine to TDC: Turn crank clockwise only (viewed from belt end) using M14 triple-square (XZN) on crank bolt until TDC mark aligns. Insert T10490 crankshaft lock — it surrounds the crank gear.
3. Lock the camshaft: Insert T10264/T10265 locking pin (8mm) through the hole in the cam sprocket into the hole in the cylinder head.
   Finding the Cam Lock Hole

   This is fiddly. Use your phone camera to peer behind the sprocket and find the hole. You may need to rotate the cam very slightly before the pin drops in. The hole is in the head casting, not the sprocket — the sprocket just has an access hole that must align.

4. Lock the HPFP: Insert T10492 HPFP locking pin. This sits behind the HPFP sprocket (the pin has a cutaway to clear the sprocket).
5. Release belt tensioner: Slacken the tensioner. Lock with T10115 in its released position.
6. Remove cam sprocket hub bolt: Use T10172 counter-hold tool (pins into holes in cam sprocket) while cracking the hub bolt. This bolt may be tight — use a breaker bar.
7. Remove belt and cam sprocket: Slide belt off, remove cam sprocket from camshaft. Store belt, sprocket and tools together.

8. Cam Housing & Head Removal 1.5–2 hrs

8.1 Valve Cover Removal

The EA288 valve cover has the crankcase breather integrated, including cyclone oil separator and pressure control valve.

1. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the valve cover.
2. Remove all valve cover bolts (small bolts around perimeter — note positions).
3. Carefully lever the valve cover off. Use a plastic lever — do NOT pry against the cylinder head sealing face.
4. Inspect camshaft lobes and cam housing visually. Look for scoring, unusual wear, or metallic debris.

8.2 Camshaft Housing Removal

Each camshaft actuates one intake and one exhaust valve per cylinder. The valve layout is rotated so intake and exhaust ports are in-line (not on opposite sides).

For a rebore job where the head is sound, the cam housing can remain attached to the head as a complete assembly. Only remove it if doing valve work (stem seals, lapping valves, etc.).

8.3 Head Bolt Removal

The EA288 has 10 cylinder head bolts. These are TTY (stretch) bolts — ALWAYS replace with new bolts on reassembly.

8.4 Lifting the Head

• Check there are no remaining connections (hoses, wires, brackets) holding the head to the block.
• The head gasket seal may cause the head to stick. Do NOT pry with a screwdriver. Tap gently with a rubber/nylon mallet on the sides.
• The head with cam housing attached is heavy (~20–25 kg). Use two people or a hoist.
• Lift straight up, guiding off the dowel pins. Place on a clean wooden board.
• Remove and discard the old head gasket. Note which way up (marked "TOP" on one side).
• Immediately cover the exposed bores with a clean cloth to prevent debris falling in.

9. Bore Inspection — The Decision Point 0.5 hrs

With the head off, this is where you decide: rebore or buy a donor lump.

What You're Looking For

Bore Measurements

A machine shop will do this for £20–40, but you can do a preliminary check:

• Factory bore: 81.00 mm nominal
• Measure at: Top (below ridge), middle, bottom — in two directions (thrust face and 90° to thrust face)
• Taper ≤ 0.05 mm: Hone only, no rebore needed
• Taper > 0.05 mm or any out-of-round: Rebore required
• Visible cracking in bore walls: Terminal (very rare on cast iron EA288 blocks)

10. Stripping the Head to Bare Casting 2–3 hrs

If sending the head to a machine shop for pressure testing, or doing valve stem seal replacement, strip as follows:

10.1 Remove Camshaft Housing Assembly

1. Loosen all ~20+ cam housing bolts progressively (half turn at a time, outside to centre) to release clamping force evenly.
2. Lift the cam housing/camshaft assembly off the head as a complete unit.
3. The hydraulic tappets may come with it or stay in the head bores.
4. Remove hydraulic tappets from their bores. Keep them in order — use an egg carton or numbered cups. They must go back in the same bore.
5. Store tappets upright (not on their sides) so they stay full of oil. If they drain, they'll need time to re-prime on first start.
6. Store cam housing safely on a clean surface. Do not rest it on the cam lobes.

10.2 Remove Valves

1. Use a valve spring compressor to compress each valve spring.
2. Remove the split collets (valve keepers) with long-nose pliers or a magnetic tool.
3. Release spring compressor. Remove spring retainer, spring, and spring seat.
4. Pull each valve out from the combustion chamber side.
5. Remove old valve stem seals (pull/prise off carefully).

11. The Decision: Rebore vs Used Lump vs Recon

What's the Car Worth?

A 2013 VW Golf GTD Mk7 with ~100,000 miles: £6,000–8,500 running. As a non-runner: £2,000–3,500. The gap (£3,500–5,500) is the maximum you should rationally spend.

Head-to-Head Comparison

12. Rebore Guide — Pistons, Machine Shops, Costs

Oversize Piston Options

Machine Shop Work & Costs

East Midlands Machine Shops (Near Derby)

Ring around — not every shop takes on modern common-rail diesels. John Cooper Derby is closest, call first.

Rebore Cost Summary (DIY Labour, Feb 2026 Prices)

13. Pre-Assembly Checks 2–3 hrs

Do ALL of these before reassembling anything. They will save you pulling the engine apart again.

13.1 Block & Crank

• Block: Should be back from machine shop with fresh bores. Clean ALL oil galleries with a rifle brush and brake cleaner. The block must be spotless — any debris will destroy new bearings immediately.
• Crankshaft journals: Use Plastigauge (~£5, Halfords). Lay a strip across each journal, torque the cap to spec, remove and measure crush width against the chart. Main clearance: 0.03–0.06mm. Big end: 0.03–0.05mm. If journals are scored or oval, the crank needs regrinding (£120–180) and undersize bearings.
• Crank end float: Mount a dial gauge against the crank end. Lever back and forth. Spec: 0.07–0.17mm. If excessive, new thrust washers needed.
• Piston spray nozzles: Inspect the oil spray nozzles (piston cooling jets) in the block. These squirt oil at the underside of each piston to cool it. Make sure they are clear and not bent.

13.2 Head Checks

• Pressure test: Get the head pressure tested (£30–40 at any machine shop). This checks for cracks in the coolant jacket and combustion chamber. If it fails, replace the head — do NOT attempt to weld aluminium heads.
• Flatness: Check with straight edge and feeler gauges across the gasket face. Max deviation: 0.05mm. If warped, replace with AMC casting. Do NOT have it skimmed.
• Valve seats: Clean the valves, place them in the head, pour petrol into each port. If it seeps past the seat, the valves need lapping or the seats need recutting.

13.3 Oil System

• If EGR cooler caused the failure: Flush the entire oil system — oil cooler, oil galleries, turbo oil feed pipe. Metallic debris from a failed EGR cooler contaminates everything.
• Blow through the turbo oil feed pipe with compressed air to ensure it's clear.

13.4 Ring Gap Check

• Insert each piston ring squarely into the freshly bored cylinder (use the piston to push it square).
• Measure the gap with feeler gauges.
• Typical diesel ring gaps: top ring 0.25–0.45mm, second ring 0.30–0.55mm, oil ring 0.25–0.75mm.
• If tight, file to spec (only file from outside in).

14. Bottom End Reassembly 4–6 hrs

14.1 Crankshaft Installation

1. Clean all main bearing saddles in the block with brake cleaner. Remove ALL traces of old bearing material and dirt.
2. Fit new main bearing shells (upper halves) into the block saddles. The shells have a locating tab that sits in a notch — they should click in with light finger pressure. Oil the bearing surface generously.
3. Lower the crankshaft into position carefully. Do NOT drop it.
4. Fit the lower main bearing shells into the main caps. Oil bearing surfaces.
5. Fit main caps in correct order and orientation (they are numbered). Torque in sequence (centre outward, multi-stage).
6. Check crank end-float with dial gauge. Spec: 0.07–0.17mm.
7. The crank should spin freely by hand with slight drag from new bearings. If it binds, strip back and investigate.

14.2 Piston & Ring Installation

1. Fit rings to pistons: Oil control ring first (often a 3-piece assembly with expander), then second compression ring, then top compression ring. Check "TOP" markings face upward.
2. Stagger ring gaps: Space the gaps approximately 120° apart around the piston. Do NOT align them — this prevents a direct blow-by path.
3. Fit big end bearings: New shells into each conrod and cap. Oil generously.
4. Fit piston to conrod: Gudgeon pin is a floating fit retained by circlips. Ensure both circlips are fully seated in their grooves.
5. Compress rings: Use a ring compressor band. Oil the bore and the rings generously.
6. Push piston into bore: Firm, even pressure with the handle of a wooden hammer. If it stops, a ring has popped out of the compressor — pull back and reset. Do NOT force.
7. Fit big end cap: Pull conrod down onto crankshaft journal. Fit cap in correct orientation (fracture-split face must match — see Section 2). Torque big end bolts to spec.
8. Repeat for all 4 pistons. Check each one spins freely on the crank after torquing.

14.3 Oil Pump & Sump

1. Oil pump belt: The EA288 oil pump is belt-driven inside the sump. Ensure correct tension per spec.
2. Sump: Clean mating surfaces. Apply sealant (Loctite 5900 or equivalent). Torque sump bolts evenly (10–15Nm).

15. Cylinder Head Reassembly 3–4 hrs

15.1 Valve Stem Seals

1. Fit new valve stem seals to all 16 valve guides.
2. Use a seal fitting tool or deep socket to press them on squarely.
3. They must sit fully on the guide — a cockeyed seal will leak oil down the valve stem.

15.2 Valve Installation

1. Oil each valve stem and insert valves back into the head — each valve to its original position (labelled during removal).
2. Fit valve spring seats, springs, and retainers.
3. Use valve spring compressor to compress the spring and fit the split collets (keepers).
4. Collet check: Tap the valve tip with a soft mallet and listen for a solid sound. If the collets pop out, refit them. A properly seated collet pair will not come loose.

15.3 Hydraulic Tappets

• Refit hydraulic tappets to their original positions (from your labelled egg carton).
• They should have been stored upright and full of oil.
• If they've drained, they'll need time to re-prime once the engine is running — expect ticking for 1–5 minutes on first start. This is normal.

15.4 Camshaft Housing Reinstallation

1. Ensure the cam housing mating face is clean. No gasket is used — it seals metal-to-metal with the precision machined surface.
2. Lower the cam housing cassette onto the head, aligning the dowel pins.
3. Fit ALL new TTY cam housing bolts hand-tight first.
4. Tighten in a spiral pattern from centre outward:

This is critical for even clamping without distorting the aluminium head.

16. Fitting Head to Block 1–2 hrs

16.1 Preparation

1. Block face: Clean the block deck surface with a plastic scraper and brake cleaner. No scoring or gouging.
2. Head face: Clean the head gasket face. Plastic scraper only on aluminium.
3. Head gasket: Fit new MLS head gasket. Marked "TOP" on one side — this faces upward. Align with dowel pins on the block.

16.2 Head Installation

1. Lower the head carefully onto the block, guiding over the dowel pins. This is heavy with cam housing attached (~20–25 kg) — two people or a hoist.
2. Fit all 10 NEW head bolts hand-tight. Oil the threads and under the bolt heads.
3. Do NOT reuse old head bolts.

16.3 Head Bolt Torque Sequence

17. Timing Belt Installation 2–3 hrs

Timing Belt Kit Options

Fitting Procedure

1. Fit cam sprocket to camshaft. Tighten hub bolt to 100Nm using T10172 counter-hold.
2. Lock crank: Rotate clockwise to TDC. Insert T10490 crankshaft lock.
3. Lock cam: Insert T10264/T10265 locking pin (8mm) through cam sprocket into head. Use phone camera to find the hole.
4. Lock HPFP: Insert T10492 locking pin behind HPFP sprocket.
5. Fit new idler rollers and tensioner to block.
6. Route timing belt: Crank → tensioner → cam sprocket → HPFP sprocket → coolant pump → idler rollers back to crank.
7. Sprocket alignment: Check elongated holes in cam and HPFP sprockets are centrally located (not at end of adjustment range).
8. Set tension: Release tensioner — pointer must align with mark/window. Nip cam and HPFP sprocket nuts.
9. Remove ALL three locking tools (crank, cam, HPFP).
10. Rotate engine by hand: At least 2 full revolutions (720°) clockwise. It should turn smoothly with no interference.
11. Refit all three locking tools. They must drop in perfectly.

12. Final torque: With timing confirmed, torque cam sprocket bolt to 100Nm (T10172 counter-hold, remove lock pin first) and HPFP sprocket to spec (T10051 counter-hold, remove lock pin first).
13. Remove all tools. Rotate engine two more turns. Re-check all lock pins seat.
14. Fit timing belt covers. Check no wiring trapped.

18. Ancillary Reassembly 4–6 hrs

Refit in reverse order of removal. Key torques and notes:

19. Fluids, First Start & Running-In 1–2 hrs

19.1 Fluids

19.2 Pre-Start Checklist

• All sensors reconnected? (Compare against disassembly photos)
• All coolant hoses connected and clips tight?
• Oil filled to correct level on dipstick?
• Coolant filled and system bled (VCDS)?
• Fuel system primed (no air in lines)?
• Timing belt covers refitted?
• Engine mount bolts all torqued?
• Battery reconnected?
• Nothing left in the engine bay (tools, rags, bolts)?
• Exhaust connected?

19.3 First Start Procedure

1. Prime fuel: Turn ignition to position 2 (not start), wait for glow plug light to go out. Turn off. Repeat 3 times. This cycles the fuel pump.
2. Start: On the 4th cycle, start. It may crank longer than normal — this is expected as oil pressure builds and fuel primes.
3. Idle check: Once running, DO NOT rev it. Let it idle. Check immediately for oil leaks, coolant leaks, exhaust leaks.
4. Tappet noise: The hydraulic tappets may tick for 1–5 minutes as they re-prime with oil. This is normal and should settle.
5. Oil pressure: Warning light should go out within 3–5 seconds. If it stays on >10 seconds, STOP the engine immediately.
6. Warm up: Idle until normal operating temperature. Check for leaks again when warm.
7. Oil level: Shut down, wait 5 minutes, recheck (it will have dropped as filter fills). Top up.

19.4 Running-In Period (Rebore Only)

• First 500 miles: Vary RPM between 1,500–3,000. No sustained high RPM. No full throttle. No towing.
• 500–1,000 miles: Gradually increase load. Short bursts of higher RPM fine.
• At 1,000 miles: Change oil and filter — first oil will contain fine metal particles from ring bedding. Normal.
• After 1,000 miles: Normal driving. Switch to VW 504/507 spec long-life oil.
• If still using oil after 2,000 miles: Rings may not have seated. This often happens if synthetic oil was used for first fill.

20. Complete Torque Reference Table

21. Parts Order Checklist

Must-Have (Both Paths)

Rebore Path Additional

If Head Needs Replacing

CUNA/CUPA uses oval port exhaust. Do NOT order round port version (DSD6159).

Optional / EGR Delete

EGR delete: not road-legal in UK, requires ECU remap. DSD7274 is most comprehensive.

22. Downloads for Dad — Reference Documents

Download and print these. Keep them in the garage alongside this guide.

VW Self Study Programmes (SSP) — FREE Cutaway Diagrams

Workshop Manual

Video Guides

• REPXPERT / Schaeffler — Timing Belt Change — Professional training video from the belt manufacturer. FREE at repxpert.com
• Dieselgeek EA288 Timing Belt — 40+ min professional video. dieselgeek.com ($24.95)
• SeatCupra.net DIY Thread — Step-by-step with photos: seatcupra.net

Parts Catalogue (ETKA Online)

• 7zap.com — VW → Golf → 2.0 TDI → Group 01 (Engine) for exploded views
• webautocats.com/etka — Alternative ETKA browser

23. Forums & Community Resources

• VW Audi Forum — EA288 compression pressures, rebuild discussions, EGR cooler failure reports
• BRISKODA — Octavia vRS CUPA oil consumption thread, swap compatibility
• SEATCUPRA.NET — EA288 184 timing belt procedure with photos, oil consumption reports
• TDI Club — EA288 oil pump belt, fluid capacities, SSP documents
• Darkside Developments Blog — MQB Platform EA288 Engine Tuning guide
• IDParts Blog — Timing tool identification and usage guide with photos

24. Specialist Contacts

25. Donor Engine Market — February 2026

Best Options (In Stock)

eBay Search Alerts (Set These Up)

• "CUNA engine"
• "CUPA engine"
• "2.0 TDI 184 engine"
• "GTD engine"
• "EA288 184 engine"
• "Octavia vRS TDI engine"

26. Garage Wall Card

Print this page and cut out the card below. Tape it to the wall next to the engine.

27. Engine Photos — 21 February 2026

Photos of the actual engine. Tap any photo to enlarge.

0378: Engine bay overview — top-down view. Intake manifold, fuel rail, injector harness all visible.

0379: Intake side — intercooler pipe, air intake duct, coolant connection.

0380: Air filter box area — mounting bolts, part number sticker.

0381: ACHTUNG/ATTENTION sticker between slam panel and engine.

0382: Lower turbo area — coolant pipes, oil feed lines.

0383: Turbo side — part number label, dipstick, HPFP area, turbo actuator.

0384: EGR COOLER — The flat plate with coolant pipes. This is the component that typically fails. Inspect closely when stripped.

0385: Timing belt end — upper coolant pipe, auxiliary belt area and tensioner.

0387: INJECTOR RAIL + WIRING — All 4 connectors visible with fuel return lines. Good reference for reassembly.

0388: Radiator/condenser — fins clean. Spring clip and temp sensor at bottom.

0389: Front crash bar — wiring loom routing, engine mounting points.

0390: HARNESS CONNECTORS — Engine-to-body harness junction. Disconnect before engine removal. Reference for reconnection.

0391: EGR COOLER CLOSE-UP — Corrosion and salt deposits. Coolant feed pipes visible.

0392: Engine bay rear — VW serial sticker. Wiring and hose routing reference.

0393: HPFP — High-pressure fuel pump with pressure sensor and fuel lines. Starter motor below.

0394: Above-right — hose routing, wiring loom, heat shield.

0395: Coolant connection at back of head. Reference for reassembly routing.

Strip-Down Progress — 21 Feb 2026 (Batch 2)

Front end removed, ancillary strip-down in progress.

0396: FULL ENGINE BAY EXPOSED — Front bumper/slam panel removed. Blue sheet underneath. Much better access for strip-down.

0397: Lower engine — alternator, A/C compressor, coolant hoses exposed.

0398: Starter motor and lower block — wiring partially disconnected.

0399: Engine from passenger side — oil filler removed, hoses disconnected.